Nearing the end (10 months)

As I sat in the boat waiting for a bite from the brightly colored fish swimming around underneath me, I think about my adventure during the past year and how we are nearing the end. 

I vividly remember driving to LAX with my mom and wondering if I made a mistake deciding to come here.  I would have two more days left in America, having seen family and friends across America.  I felt nervous, excited, and full of wonder.  The time got closer and closer, and finally it was time to go to LAX.  I got to my gate, sat down and waited for the other volunteers to arrive.  I recognized some of them from Facebook.  We all arrived with excitement on our faces, eager to meet the other people who would have a similar experience.  I sat back and just observed the scene in front of me.  Their faces, their clothing, their interactions.  I also wondered where the other Deaf volunteers were and how I would find them.  All of a sudden, I saw hands fly not too far from where I was sitting.  I felt relieved and walked over to meet them.  We introduced each other and made small talk while waiting to board the plane to Honolulu.  

We arrived in Honolulu at some crazy time late in the night and had to find the shuttle to our hotel.  We all walked together and people assumed roles on their own-the leader, the follower, and the skeptic who questioned whether we were going the right way.  And the rest of us who just wanted to go to bed and didn't care where we were going as long as we would reach the hotel.  We arrived the hotel and checked in, allowing us 4 hours of sleep before having to be at the airport "bright and early".  Again, people assumed different roles. 

The plane took off and we were over the big blue ocean for 5 hours.  Finally, we saw land!  Photos were taken, from cameras and camera phones.  People who were lucky enough to sit in the middle (yours truly) got a brief glimpse of the place we would call home for the next year.  The water was different shades of turquoise clear, you could see the coral beneath the water.  We landed and got off the plane like tourists, taking pictures of everything.  The plane, the "yokwe" sign, and waited in line to get our passports stamped.  I was shocked. The time has finally arrived and I am here!   It felt like a dream. 

We got to know each other, learn about Marshallese culture, Marshallese lifestyle, and just get used to living in a developing country while living in an elementary school classroom. Each room had about 12 volunteers sleeping on the floor.  As time went on, the shock that of being here wore off.  

School started, I got into routine of teaching and finding stuff to do on the weekends, such as watching what is going on in front of my own eyes and face timing with family and friends back in America.  

During Christmas break, we had mid service training when all the volunteers got together to get a break from volunteering and just enjoy being around other ribelles (some volunteers were the only ribelle on their island and there was no one else who could speak English).  It was time to decide when we wanted to fly back home.  We had a choice of June 1, 3, 5, or 8.  I picked the first, thinking that I would want to get out of here as quickly as possible.  

Now, I have a week left here, the place that I have called home for the past year. It is hard to even imagine leaving.  This magical place in the pacific has grown on me.  

I am not sure what happened during break, but I started the second semester feeling different.  I felt like I was a part of this island rather than an outsider.  The Marshallese people consider me one of them for the most part.  They have opened up to me, showing their true colors and the amazing culture that they own.  I know that I will always have a "home" here. 

I do not even think about my answer when people offer me fish (raw or cooked).  Children walking around naked make me laugh to myself.  Dogs no longer scare me.  I know secrets to staying cool under a thousand layers of clothing.  I automatically stand in the shade while waiting for a taxi.  I am not shocked when kids arrive to school without shoes.  I get one glass of water for my class and remind them not to drink the entire glass because there are other students waiting for some water.

I will definitely miss this place and the laid back life. 

Off to make the most of my last week here!

And if anyone was wondering, I made the right decision coming here. 

Wōn (turtle)

There are sea turtles all over the region although I have yet to see one.  I hope to see one before I leave.

The Marshallese people eat turtles at big events such as a kemen (baby's first birthday), funerals, etc... We were warned during orientation that if we see a turtle lying upside down on their shell on land, we have to leave it alone although we would want to turn it back right side up and let it go.  It is a dishonor to Marshallese people if we did that.  Fortunately I haven't seen any upside down turtles or been served turtle meat.  People on the outer islands have talked about their experience with that. 

On Saturday, I was riding in the back of a truck to get to Laura beach.  While riding through Ajeltake, I saw four men carry a turtle onto the bed of a pick up truck.  It was already dead and upside down.  I was thrilled to finally see a turtle outside of aquariums and zoos.  I still hope to see a live turtle in its natural habitat. 

Christmas party

The Majuro Deaf School is on the campus of Marshall Islands High School. The high school had a Christmas party and invited us to join them.  At first, I didn't really want to go because I wanted to bake cookies for our big picnic the next day.  After talking to some people, I decided to take advantage of this opportunity to experience some cultural events (which is what I really enjoy about being here).  I am glad I went.  

Some of the Special Education folks.  As you can see, I am a giant. 

The party was supposed to start at 6 so I showed up at 6, no one was there.  I watched the sunset and waited some more.  People started arriving around 7.  The party officially started at 7:30 (Island time you say?)

We started out with a prayer for the party, played some games and then dinner was finally served after saying another prayer. I was starving by that time. We had mostly Chinese food, along with Marshallese food.

One of the games that we played was fun to watch.  We all had to blow up a balloon then try to fit as many balloons into pantyhose.  

The music started and different groups including the special education group did a sing-a-long.  It was interesting to see how the different cultural groups sang.  There was a group of Philippines, Fijians,  Tuvalus, and of course Marshalls.  The Fijians sang and did a little dance.  I learned that the Marshallese will spray some coconut oil and put lotion on your face if they really like your singing.  The Fijians and Marshallese got that special treatment. 

We were getting tired so we left at around 10:30.  I ended up baking the cookies early on Friday.  

People

One of the things that I enjoy about being in Marshall Islands is that I meet many new people.  

For example, today I was at the post office waiting for it to open.  A ribelle lady who I have seen around before with her 2 kids came to find that it was closed, asked me what time it was (close to opening time) then she started talking to me.  I told her I was deaf and gave her my iPhone to type to me, and she did with no problems.  She is from Idaho, her husband is from Brazil and he teaches at the college here, they move around a lot. She gave me her phone number to text if I ever need anything.

I like that:

1) ribelle people are not afraid to approach other ribelle people,

2) they are not afraid to communicate with me when I give them a different method to communicate,

And

3) we take care of each other. 

In America, everyone is out minding their own business or rushing through life so they don't take the opportunity to chat with other people. 

Marshallese people typically are shy around unfamiliar ribelles, and they tend to either say hi and giggle or just look at us when we are not looking at them and then look away when we look at them. The Marshallese people who are familiar with me almost always smile and wave hi when they see me, so I am usually walking down the street waving hi to everyone. 

Jasmi

I am sure that you noticed by now that I see a lot of cultural things during my home visits.  Well, here is another one. 

I went on a home visit, just as I was finishing up, the family used gestures to communicate with me.  They signed fish, pointed to their stove so I said ok.  The father is a fisherman (what male here isn't..) and they have given me fish to take home in the past.  Well, this time it was a bit different.  

The parents got up and went outside. They told me to stay inside.  Of course I was curious what was happening outside so I went outside after a while.  The father was sharpening his knife and washing fish. He had a box of maybe 5 fish in it.  The mother told me to go back inside and wait.  So I did.... 

The mother came inside with me, we chatted a bit and she started cooking the rice.  I asked her what was going on, she said "Jasmi" and when I gave her a puzzled look, she said wait.  So wait I did... 

The father gave me a plate with cleaned up fish; the head and tail cut off.  The fish's skin was cut diagonally to the bone so the top part of the meat was cut but still attached to the bone.  The mother told me to try it.  I took very little and tasted it.  I had never tried raw fish before so of course I was a bit nervous.  

We waited a bit more, she told me to add lemon and salt to the cut parts of the dish.  I did so with her guidance, then we waited... The rice was still cooking. 

I was getting worried because I had to get back to the office before 5 to pick up my stuff before it closed.  It was getting close to 4.  I was also wondering how I could eat it without something to drink.  I usually bring my water bottle, but of course the day I don't, I need it and it's not safe to drink unfiltered water. The family offered to buy me a drink, problem solved!

The rice was finally ready so they gave me some rice and we ate the fish with rice.  It wasn't too bad actually.  The lemon and salt softened the fish so it was  easy to take off and eat.  The taste of the fish went well with the lemon and salt so all the flavors blended together, making it taste good.  I ate the top half of the fish, the family gave me the bottom half to bring home and eat later. 

So... That is what Jasmi is!

By the way, I got to the office just in time before it closed.

Marshallese roof

This week must be my lucky week.  TWO cultural experiences this week.  

I have one child to do home visits for in Ajeltake which is between the airport and Laura, about 15 miles from the hospital way out in the country.  It takes about 45 minutes to get there by regular car (not a taxi). When we got there, we found a bunch of women sitting on the ground on mats with dried leaves around them.  I asked Chinilla what they were doing, and she said that they were making a roof for Marshallese huts (the kind you imagine houses on an island would look like with leaves covering the roof).

  

We watched them bind the large pandanus leaves with the leaf stem from a coconut tree.  They used some kind of tool (that they made themselves from metal... In ancient times, they used a whale tooth) to puncture a hole in the pandanus leaf to push the leaf from a coconut tree through so they will stay attached (they are technicially sewing two pandanus leaves together).  They are made piece by piece then put together on the roof.  It was very fascinating to watch!  Of course, I had to ask them if I could take pictures.  The women fixed their hair so they would look good haha.

You can see the coconut leaf stems next to her on her right

Woman working.... And a baby

Pile of finished product is on her left, unfinished product is in front of her. 

Close up of the tool that they used to make the holes... And the holes with coconut leaf stem through them.

It's really fascinating how the Marshallese people use every part of a plant to make things.  

Marshallese oven

The Marshallese people tend to cook over an open fire, so naturally I assumed that they do not bake things.  Well, imagine my surprise when I went on a home visit to see them baking cookies.  Wanna see how??? 

Ta-da!  It is technicially an open fire in an enclosed place.  The oven is made of wood with iron for the racks and to hold the fire in the box.  The fire is made outside of the oven, and then inserted into the oven using a wooden stick with a nail (the box has holes in it for the nail to go through).  The cookies that came out of the oven was very good, very chewy.  Still amazed! 

Home visits

The EHDI coordinator and I have been doing home visits together since I arrived because Marshallese people are shy and not comfortable around people who are not Marshallese.  She went to a conference in Texas last week so I have been doing them on my own for two weeks now.  

It's been an interesting experience.  Most parents are able to read/write English to some degree.  We usually try to communicate by lip reading (hard because they pronounce things differently) or gestures before goog to written English.  They also teach me Marshallese while I teach them sign language so it works out both ways! 😄

Today I had a first: home visit with a naked 3 year old boy. 😄. I arrived to their home to see him standing out near the driveway.  I wasn't sure if it was the right boy or not but he led me to his mother and I figured it was the right boy. I just had to giggle in my head... Welcome to Marshall Islands! Lol!

Young children are often naked for whatever reason and I guess I was bound to encounter this experience sooner or later. 😄

Another item checked off my bucket list

In the past, not many babies would live to see their first birthday so they really celebrate a baby's first birthday here.  It is called a "Kemen".  

On this recent Tuesday, my coworker for the early intervention aspect of my time here asked me if I wanted to go to a birthday party for the hearing screening nurse's grand son.  I decided to go just to have something to do.  I did not realize til I arrived that it was a Kemen!  I was thrilled because I have wanted to experience it and now I can.  

The party was supposed to start at 7 pm, but my coworker told me to arrive around 7:30 so I did.  The taxi ride there was a completely different adventure. Anyways, so we entered the room, found a place to sit, chatted with the other people on our table.  The room was about halfway full.  We chatted, chatted, chatted... And chatted til like 8:30 when the birthday boy arrived.  He went around the room so that people could wish him a happy birthday.  There was a speech given by his mom to thank everyone for coming, a prayer by a nun and then it was time to eat.  It was a buffet full of seafood and we all know how much I love seafood.  We were asked to help serve food to the young children so we did.  The young children got rice, potato salad, chicken and spam.  I scooped rice onto their plates.  When all the children were served, we went over to the adult buffet to get our food.  I tried to get a little of everything so I could try it.   There were some food that I didn't get because it was raw fish and I did not want to risk getting sick.  

I tried some sushi (made myself eat it.. I gagged but I swallowed it! Progress!), fried shrimp, mussels, some kind of seafood salad with some kind of seafood in it, reef fish (not pictured) and yes that is a lobster.  I ate a little of everything except for the potato salad-Marshallese potato salads are yummmmmmy!

After everyone ate, the baby sat and we all came to him, throwing a dollar into a box.  Then there was music and a dance show showing Kiribati dances (the family is from Kiribati, another island country), and then we had child dance off where a girl and boy won a prize (see video below), then trivia about the birthday boy.  People who answered correctly won Kiribati sarongs and shirts.  Then cake was served and everyone was encouraged to take food home for their families. Not like they needed encouragement anyways.  People here tend to get a plate for themselves, then a few more to bring home to their families. Another example of the collectivist culture here. 

Children watching Kiribati dances

I didn't get home til close to 11, and I was exhausted the next day but it was all worth it! Now I can check it off my bucket list!

 Oh yeah, I also received a crown of flowers-my third one! 

Manit Day (week)

September 26th was Manit Day, a national holiday in the Marshall Islands to celebrate its culture.  Manit means culture in Marshallese language.  At the school, we decided to have events all week. 

On Monday, we had a man come to tell us some traditional Marshallese bwebwenatos (stories).  

On Tuesday, we made Marshallese necklaces/bracelets. One of the educational assistants is very good at making Marshallese handicraft so she brought in some Palm tree fronds and shells.  Each student got three strands of fronds to braid. When they were done, we could put a shell in the middle and at the end to make a clasp.  The holes in the shells were made by holding the shell in a crevice of rock/coral, then pounding a nail through the top part with another rock.  Easier said than done!  I was able to pound a hole in a shell, but not after several tries!

My kindergarten kids were able to make their own version the next day since they go home before this activity took place.  

On Wednesday, we went to the Alele museum of Marshallese history.  I won't say much about the museum because I am planning to take Abby there when she visits in December.  I will say that it was very interesting and a good museum to visit if you ever go to the Marshall Islands.  

On Thursday, we had a feast of Marshallese food.  Each person (staff members and students) were to bring two coconuts and a piece of fish.  I am sure that the students had an easier time getting coconuts and fish as they probably just climbed a tree and fished at home.  I went to a farmers market for the coconuts and another teacher went to the food store for the fish.  It all cost $8 total (for 4 coconuts and 2 pieces of fish)!  

Parents and family members came to help with the feast.  Some women wove Palm tree leaves to make plates.  I tried my hand at the weaving.  It was easy once you got the hang of it.  Other women cooked breadfruit in an abandoned tire rim.  Fish was cooked on the grill.  Mature coconut meat was taken out and made into a drink called "u" made of mashed coconut meat, condensed milk, sugar and ice.  There was music and lots of children dancing and exploring the ocean in front of school.   We also saw different ways to husk a coconut (with a machete or by teeth) and drank/ate a lot of coconut juice and meat.  It was a fun day learning culture.

It was the first time I ate a whole fish with its face still attached to it.  The meat was easy to slide off the fish, and it didn't taste too much like fish.  Just ignore the face while eating. 😄. I also ate some breadfruit, pandanus, and drank some u. It was also my first time that I drank some coconut juice and liked it!  I didn't like it before. 

My lunch after a student stole my food. 

Go to my facebook page to see the movie I made of different videos from that day. 

It was really good to see the children be proud of their culture and "show off" their skills to the ribelles.  Some students climbed a coconut tree that went straight up, others cut open a coconut/husked a coconut with his teeth, others grilled the fish, and yet more wove the plates.  They were thrilled to teach us what they knew. It is one of my favorite days/week so far.

On Friday, there was supposed to be some cultural games, dances and food/handcraft being sold on the Alele grounds, but we were rained out. We were able to get transportation for all the students to attend but it rained off and on all day so we were not able to enjoy any games.  We did see some dances though.  I got a crown made of flowers.  It was beautiful and very fragrant! 

Funeral

Hello all my loyal readers (looking at you, Abby 😉)

Sorry I haven't posted for a while.  I have been very busy moving in and out of three different places, now I am in a temporary apartment while they fix the dorm. The dorm has a water piping issue, so I moved into my friend's apt until the power supply got on fire and there was no power so we moved into a hotel room with the other volunteers and now all the volunteers are in an apartment.  It's all good though! 😄

Last week, there was a funeral for a student's family member. He called him his brother, but actually it was his 2 year old cousin.  That's how families roll here, everyone takes care of everyone.  Anyways, so we decided that the whole school would attend because he kept on mentioning it.  It was our (volunteers') first Marshallese funeral.  We were informed about the customs, but there is nothing like experiencing it.  We all rode the school vans to the boy's family home, went in the living room where the casket was on the floor in the middle of the room.  We all sat on the floor with who seems to be the child's mom, and grandma.  A man stood up to talk about the concept of dying and how he fulfilled his life on earth but never gone from our hearts, then another man stood up to talk about the boy's relationship with our student. He thanked us all for coming and it means a lot to that student.  Then we all stood up, got in a line to give our sympathies to the mother and grandmother who were still sitting, tossed money into the coffin which had a piece of plexiglass covering the opening.  The children threw in a quarter and the adults threw in a dollar.  After that, we went outside for a reception of donuts, some orange drink and a soup.  The donuts here tastes very different than America's donuts, not sweet at all, denser bread.  That boy would be buried at 5 pm that evening, one day funeral. 

Sometimes funerals last 2 weeks, the dead person would be in the family's home until they are buried.  They won't bury the person until all family members are present, even those living on the outer islands. No emotion is shown at the funeral, until the person is buried, then they will cry. 

The boy will be buried at the family property alongside other family members who have already died.  I saw them digging the hole when we were inside the house for the funeral.  

Next Bōlaide (Friday), there is no school  to celebrate the Marshallese culture.  It is called Manit Day (Manit=Culture).  We have several activities planned during the week to celebrate Marshallese culture.  On Bōlaide, there will be an essay contest for high school students in the morning and field games for elementary students in the afternoon for the whole island, and then different events happening during the weekend.  

Culture Day

Today, we went to the field director, Todd's house for a "cultural day".  The boys learned how to husk a coconut while the ladies learned about their traditional handicraft.  They use parts of coconuts to create the crafts. Here is an example of their handcraft. They are very beautiful.

Here is some of me learning how to weave it. I broke the "string" on my first try and got the hang of it after a while. It is pretty easy to do.  

We also had dinner of rice and BBQ chicken, served Marshallese style (or maybe just Todd style) in plastic containers on back of a truck. 

No firepit is complete without s'mores!  Yum!

Here are some sunset pictures taken from Todd's home.

Above two pics-world teach volunteers enjoying the sunset. 

And some witch moon pics!

Guess what came in the mail today!?!?  Three of my boxes! Yahoo!  It felt like Christmas morning!  The box of books came in last week, two boxes of toys and one personal box came in today, waiting for one more personal box.  2 months is long enough, don'cha think!?!?  I also got a box of treats from Sandra! Thanks, Sandra! The fruit bars and almonds are delicious!  I ate one fruit bar when I opened the box!